How to choose Japanese thobe fabric: a guide to stand, feel and care

Ask the people of the Jeddah market which fabric customers want for their formal thobe, and the answer is usually “Japanese”. But many customers choose without knowing what the name means: what is the difference between the types? What does the “stand” of a fabric mean? And how can you be sure that what you are holding is genuine? This guide answers those questions in simple language, from what we hear every day at our branches.

Why do so many people prefer Japanese fabric?

• Colour-fast: the colours do not change or fade with washing and use.
• Treated against sweating: suited to Jeddah’s heat and humidity.
• Resists the fabric breaking down in the sun.
• A longer life, with quality in the weave and the packaging.

What is the “stand”?

The “stand” (waqfa) is how firm the fabric is, that is, how much of its shape the thobe keeps. Customers divide it into three degrees:

• Quarter stand: light, for work and daily use, and it does not crease. Items include 870 and 838.
• Half stand: mid-formal, for occasions and weddings. Items include 652 and 667.
• Full stand: a firm fabric with a heavy stand. Item 290 is one.

Note that the stand is not the same as “fluid” (tayih). The stand is the firmness of the fabric, while fluid is how it falls and drapes on the body. A fabric can be half stand and fluid at the same time.

How can you tell it is genuine?

Genuine Japanese fabrics carry the item name and country of origin printed on the fabric itself, usually at the selvedge: “Made in Japan”. Examples from our range:

• Original Sukruta — Abu Ghazalain (1970), with its gold logo printed on the fabric.
• Sakura Plus twill (814) and Yamori (3000).
• Shikibo (294): 96% polyester with 4% modal.
• Original Tetron (2704): 100% polyester.

A quick test with your hands

Pull the fabric between your hands: a good weave holds together and its threads do not part. The finer the yarn, the softer the feel. And if a manufacturing defect shows in the fabric before it is tailored, you may exchange it or return it.

How much fabric do you need for a Saudi thobe?

It depends on the fabric width: 58 inches needs 3.25 m (3.57 yd); 44, 42 or 38 inches needs 4.5 m (5 yd).

How do you care for your thobe?

• Wash in water below 30°C, without too much detergent and without any bleach.
• Rinse well to remove detergent residue.
• Do not tumble-dry, so that no pilling forms; dry in the shade.
• Iron at no more than 110°C.

These instructions are for polyester and filament. For cotton and linen, wash in water below 40°C and iron between 110 and 140°C.

Where to find it and have it tailored

You will find these items at our branches in Jeddah, and you can have your thobe tailored from the fabric you choose at Ramada Al-Raqi Tailoring. Browse white, cream and coloured Japanese fabric, find the nearest branch, or message us on WhatsApp and we will answer.